It wasn’t all cocktail hours and bar crawls in New York in
1976 and 1977. Facing me was the seemingly Quixotic mission of turning around
the worst of KFC’s five national regions. My new region was headlined by Metropolitan
New York, but also included New York’s southern tier; the Tidewater area of
Virginia, Columbus, Pittsburgh, a sliver of West Virginia coal country and one down
at the heels city in Massachusetts. 229 company owned stores all told. Region
One, anchored by its comatose 68 store NYC district, was the doormat of the
nation by every measure; sales growth, profit and operating standards; the
thing we called QSC, Quality, Service and Cleanliness. We possessed none of the
above.
Just six years has passed since I had been demoted from being
Director of Operations of Four n’ 20 Pies, a company I had co-founded, and had
been banished to Queens to fix one ailing restaurant. When informing me of my
fate my boss, Kurt Kornreich, told me, “I don’t think you’re a top guy.” Those
words and the punch they delivered have stayed with me. Yet here I was, a wunderkind
on his white horse, riding into New York to save the day.
My entrance on Manhattan’s main stage was an crowd pleaser that’s for sure. The day before I was to take over the market, Colonel
Sander’s toured a handful of our Manhattan stores with Mimi Sheraton, the bitch
goddess food critic of the New York Times. When she and the Colonel visited the
unit on 6th Avenue between Greenwich and Waverly the Colonel came unhinged.
The chicken wasn’t fresh. It was supposed to be pressure fried every two hours. You could tell long it had been sitting by its internal temperature which
should hover around 170 degrees. That chicken hadn’t seen 140 since day before yesterday.
But the gravy, God help us, was mucilage and Harlan Sanders was the original gravy
Nazi. The gentleman from Corbin, Kentucky carried a silver tablespoon in breast
pocket of his white suit for heaven’s sake. When he tasted the paste, he erupted
into an expletive filled tirade which was faithfully recorded by Mimi’s able sword, I mean pen.
Her byline ran in the Times the next morning. And that very afternoon
I was to host a press conference at the 21 Club to welcome the Colonel to New
York. I couldn’t have wished for a more auspicious start. What does a 34-year-old
pup say to Colonel Sanders, whom he has yet to meet, in front of 100 slathering
jackals? Let’s just say he deviates from the script he wrote the week before
and prostrates himself before the great man. “Thank you, Colonel Sanders, for
pointing out our myriad shortcomings. Next time you visit you’ll be happy with
the gravy.”
After the press conference when I was finally introduced to
the Colonel. I said, “An honor to meet you, sir. I’m sorry you had such a disappointing experience
yesterday.” He paused a moment, looked me in the eye, touched my arm and said,
“So you’re the new man. Good luck to you, sir. I know you’ll take care of it.”
When I accepted the promotion from executive vice president
of Pewter Pot, the 22 unit coffee shop chain I’d been operating in Boston for three
years, somebody in HR told me, “If you can fix that train wreck they ought to
give it to you.” The situation was so dire that nobody thought it could be
fixed. My calculated risk was the third in a ten-year foray into fixing broken
restaurant chains. If the company was on its last breath, I figured, the easier
it would be to turn around and look like a star. It worked most of the
time.
The lynchpin of the whole deal was obviously New York. If I
couldn’t fix New York it was game over.
As in three earlier turnarounds, the first thing we did was
the thing that didn’t require a brain. We spruced up the stores so that they were
places you’d want to work, maybe even be proud of. We called it “Paint Up-Fix
Up” and it wasn’t much more than that. They weren’t big dollar improvements,
certainly, but it was enough to provide a working environment where we could require
performance. It meant that we could plausibly convey our expectations for
food quality, store cleanliness and service. We came to lead the nation in all.
After we completed the rudimentary paint-up fix up and had
made our expectations clear, we held rallies with every employee in our
New York market in attendance. The rallies were held in the auditorium of the
New York Hilton and featured high end audio visuals including the television advertising
campaign we were about to launch. Glossy TV ads and big sound always get the audience going.
Because
we needed to drive traffic into our improved stores we blitzed the market
with the famed “Buck a Meal Deal.” That’s one piece of chicken, mashed potatoes and
a biscuit for one single dollar. Thank you very much. It didn’t pretend to be elegant,
but it rang the cash register and gave us some breathing room. But the Buck a Meal gambit
almost cost me my job. I had acted unilaterally on the promotion as I was prone
to do and Tom Frank, KFC’s senior VP of marketing, gave me a proper dressing
down despite its success. I told him that I thought that kind of call
was within my purview. He grudgingly accepted my apology saying that, “If I
thought you knew better I’d have you fired.” I may or may not have known
better. Managing up was never my strong suit.
The sexier and equally true story of the Miracle on 42nd
Street was the first ethnic advertising ever done at KFC. Contemplate that for
a moment. You have a product that hews sharply to the black and Spanish communities and
you’ve never acknowledged their existence except to put your stores in
Bedford-Stuyvesant, the South Bronx and Harlem. The “inner city” stores were
operated to an entirely different and far lower standard than Midtown or suburban locations.
A wall separated the customer and the customer service worker, a wall with a bulletproof glass window and what appeared to be a bank teller mechanism. I had them
removed immediately.
My two area managers in Harlem, one black and one Puerto
Rican, packed heat. Street punks with a capital P. When I called them in to my Herald Square
office to inform about our new rules of engagement they responded with
unsuppressed giggles. I didn’t miss a beat, “You are fucking fired. Give me
your gun and badge.” Well, maybe not the second part.
With a modicum of momentum under our belts, we introduced two
new marketing campaigns in rapid succession. The first, “Welcome to New York” was television commercials aimed at the black, Hispanic and Jewish audiences. They were
simple confections which featured likeable Hispanic, black and Jewish women welcoming
the Colonel to New York. The Hispanic one was actually in Spanish. We were really welcoming New Yorkers back to KFC with the Colonel as a beacon of finger linkin' goodness.
But we really hit the big time when we hired a spanking new, black owned advertising
agency, Mingo Jones and Guilmenot, to develop a major campaign for us, one that went national
after its epic success in New York. Frank Mingo, the first black vice
president and account executive at McCann-Erickson where he managed the Miller Brewing
account, was 36, Carolyn Jones and Richard Guilmenot both former vice presidents
of BBD&O were 33 and 29, respectively. The 6’6 Mingo had
a creative vision as imposing as his stature. Frank was a great storyteller with a profane streak. I recall that one time when he referred to someone he didn’t like or trust as a “jamf.” I
asked him, “What the hell’s a jamf?” He replied, “Jive ass motherfucker.” A
bullshitter. Frank Mingo wasn’t one.
KFC had been running a yawner of a national campaign “It’s
so nice to feel so good about a meal” and Mingo, supported by copious research,
concluded that KFC with New York as its test piece needed to get back to promoting
the product itself. So, we employed billboards featuring Gladys Knight’s 1,000-watt
smile and radio commercials where she sang our new slogan, “We do chicken right.”
Between 1977 and 1980 KFC’s New York sales increased by 70% and KFC adopted the
theme for its national campaign.
By 1981 Mingo Jones, Guilmenot had left the firm, was the second
largest African American owned advertising agency in the country. Sadly, Frank
Mingo died in 1989 at 50 and Carolyn Jones in 2002 at the age of 59. Guilmenot has a consulting
firm on Long Island. He’s 70. Jesus, we were young. And I'm still ambulatory.
After the success in New York and throughout the region I was offered the presidency of KFC’s Mexican fast food
chain Zantigo. I turned it down the twice. I knew I had a good thing going, the number
one region in the country by wide margin, an idyllic home in the perfect New Canaan, Connecticut
and the autonomy of distance. I would soon learn how key that is. First, Jim Willey
the president of KFC, tried to sell me on the promotion and, though I liked Jim
and saw him as something of a mentor, I demurred. Then he told me if I took the job
I’d be the next president of KFC. I declined again.
No is no until it isn’t. I was summoned to Santa Barbara by Hicks Waldron the president of Heublein, KFC’s parent corporation. There on a terrace in Montecito overlooking the blue Pacific the persuasive Waldron said, “I need for you to do this.” It sounded more like a command than a request. I said "Yes.”
I went back to Boston to start Pizzeria Uno. Zantigo was sold to Taco Bell within a year.
3 comments:
This is a great explanation of your life in the world of restaurant rebuilding and corporatocracy. Quite impressive and a fascinating read. Looking forward to the next chapter...
I agree with Daryl, made me want to hear more about the old days of Steve Immel. I learned a lot more than I ever knew before. Now I have a better understanding of why you are such a high end foodie... No bologna sandwiches for you! Keep up the great storytelling. On this end we'll continue to try and distinguish fact from fictional fun. Not that you'd ever do that, but...
Any photos around of you and the Colonel? Encore.
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