The availability of water made settlement possible in the
first place. Then came the promise of riches beyond imagining and the railroad opened
the West to seekers from across the nation. Where abundant water exists so can
man. When the water has been depleted and not replenished settlements are left
to desiccate in the sun. The Mormons brought irrigation to the Four Corners. And as
the Mormons gave life to swatches of Arizona, Utah, and Colorado much earlier
the Spanish Conquistadors brought irrigation to New Mexico. The first irrigation
ditch was dug in 1598 in Chamita just west of EspaƱola and about 50 miles from
where I’m sitting. Their formula was a simple one. Find a water source like a
river or lake. Then dig a ditch or acequia to access the water and build a
church.
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Standard Oil of Rice |
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Railroad Siding, Rice, California |
Rice, California at the southern tip of the Mojave Desert
began as a Santa Fe Railroad siding. Rice, formerly Blythe Junction, sits at
the junction of the dusty road from Blythe and Highway 62 which connects 29
Palms to the west with the Colorado River to the east. What’s left of Rice is
long-closed Standard station, railroad tracks and a line of decommissioned cars,
that and a well-known Shoe Garden. Rice enjoyed its short zenith when its
municipal airport (why there was one baffles me) was acquired by the US Army’s
4th Air Support Command in 1942. During WWll the field employed as
many as 6,000 troops and employees. It lasted
about a millisecond in historical terms. It closed and was declared surplus on
October 31, 1944. Accordingly, Rice withered and died. Its claim to fame is
being the second choice for the world’s first atomic bomb test. It was well
worthy of that use.
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Yacht Club, Desert Shores |
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Beautiful Bombay Beach |
Just south the Salton Sea once boomed as a playground for
the rich and famous. Billed as Palm Springs by the Sea restaurants, shops and
night clubs sprung up along its western shore. Frequented by Sinatra and his
Rat pack, Jerry Lewis, and the Beach Boys in the Sixties the inland sea claimed
the fastest water in the world due to its salinity. During its halcyon days Bandleader
Guy Lombardo piloted his 40-foot monster to a world speed record of 118.22mph
on a one-mile course. Then two tropical storms in 1976 and 1977 poured so much
rain into the sea that it overflowed into all the towns on its shores. And when
the water finally receded the salinity level was so high that nothing could
live in it. The runoff of chemicals and fertilizers from surrounding farms
accumulated to toxic levels. The algae fed on the rotting matter floating on
the surface and suffocated most of the fish. Now the poisonous blowing dust
from the shrinking sea means that 22.8% of the Imperial Valley’s school
children have asthma. The national rate is 8.4%.
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Grain elevator, Landergin, Texas |
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Standing watch on the prairie |
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Graveyard of discarded semis |
Landergin, Texas was founded by the Irish brothers
John and Patrick Landergin whose father escaped Ireland’s Potato Famine of the
1840s. It began as a cattle ranch and when the Chicago Rock Island Line came to
the Panhandle in 1908 the brothers founded Landergin. Then the nearby town of
Vega was founded, and John Landergin opened the First State Bank there. John
and Patrick bought more ranch land and in 1912 built a mansion in Amarillo.
John Landergin was the brains of the outfit, so the cattle company floundered
after his death in 1923 and was sold at auction. There never was much to
Landergin. It peaked in 1936 when it had one store and 15 residents. There never
was a boom and its demise went unnoticed. Its fallow grain elevators stand like
sentinels on the prairie. They tower over miles of flat nothing. The
elevators and an unexplained graveyard of dead semis lured me off I-40 one
November day. They introduced me to what’s left of Landergin.More dismissed and discarded next time.
3 comments:
Can’t wait to read and see more of this series.
This is a fascinating series. The desert, naturally, without human intervention, holds massive interest. But with human interaction, the stories are endless, and I am glad you are telling them here, punctuated by your wonderful photographs. I have always loved the Yacht Club, Desert Shores, and, of course, beautiful Bombay beach. I do believe there is a book here! Thanks, Esteban!
I'll need to travel more to collect stories. Book shmook.
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